(20) Donner Lake

(20) Donner Lake

Pioneer Monument at Donner Memorial State Park

We arrived at our cabin at Donner Lake in the late afternoon of June 9, 2017. We also stayed here before going to San Francisco.

The Tragedy by which Truckee Lake became Donner Lake

Bronze of Donner survivors Spotting Relief Party
at entrance to Museum

 Donner Lake, originally known as Truckee Lake, takes its name from the tragic events of the winter of 1846-47. This beautiful Lake entered the national psyche as a place of unspeakable horrors. It was a starvation camp for members of the Donner Party who wintered there. Despite this, by the first decade of the 20th century it was already showing signs of becoming a tourist destination.

The Donner ordeal began in October 1846, it didn't finally end until April 1847. The winter was long and the successive snows were persistent. One can imagine that the trash of the camp was simply thrown outside of the cabins only to be buried by the next snowfall. More trash was added and buried by successive snowfalls. When the snow finally melted in the late spring of 1847 all of the accumulated garbage and the horrors of the winter were on gruesome display.

In June, 1847 Gen. Kearny, on his way from California to Fort Leavenworth Kansas, directed his troops to clean up the Mess. The troops gathered together the garbage, animal remains and human remains and buried them in one of the cabins. The cabin was then set alight. Despite their efforts, emigrants in the succeeding few years still reported finding remains of the horrific winter. As word of the gruesome scene spread, emigrant traffic over Donner Pass fell. It was only in 1849, with the beginning of the gold rush that emigrant traffic over Donner Pass once again begin to increase.

California State Park Interpreter Nikki Combs addressing 

Truckee Rotary Lunch,  June 1,  2017

It was originally reported that the cabin chosen as the site to collect the trash of the camp and the remains was the Murphy cabin site. However, more recent analysis points towards the Breen cabin site, which is located beneath the present day Pioneer Monument. In 2014 Forensic dogs alerted at the base of the monument which lends further evidence to the fact that this is where the remains and the garbage were collected, burned and buried.

Lincoln Highway Display in Museum at Donner Memorial State Park

Recreation Mecca

Sixty or seventy years after the tragedy people began to see Donner Lake as a camping and recreation destination.

Early stereoscope card of boaters at west end of Donner Lake

Early stereoscope pictures show tourists and visitors in rowboats on the west end beach. Later pictures even show steam launches operating on the lake. Still other photos show the beginning of Donner Lake Camp at the northwest corner of the lake. There were hotels and tourist facilities at both the East and West ends of the lake.

Donner Lake Camp at northwest shore of Donner Lake

Many of these tourist structures from the early days survived into the 1950s, the 1960s and a few into the 70s. To them were added other structures. The Donner Lake Lodge sat on the North Shore of Donner Lake. Across Donner Pass Road from the Lodge was the Donner Lake Trading Post. Just west of the trading Post was Richard's garage. Of course there were utilitarian structures too. Among these were chain sheds where motorist preparing to climb Donner Summit could have chains put on their car.

Richard's Garage Chain Shed

Old Chain Shed, Donner Lake

Chain Shed Re-Purposed into Real Estate Office

In many cases, the chains would be rented and taken off on the other side of the summit. Eastbound cars had their chains removed in the sheds. Many sheds had large drive-through doors at either end so that the cars could drive in on one side, stop, have the chain supplied and drive out the other side. A few of these chain sheds still survive.

Ghost Sign advertisement on Donner Pass Road, across the

Highway from Donner Lake

Also surviving from Donner Lake's early days as a tourist destination are a few ghost signs. Perhaps the best known ghost sign is an ad for the Whitney Hotel which can be seen just downhill from the railroad underpass on the nineteen thirteen alignment of the Lincoln Highway. Downhill from this there is another ghost sign for a camp along Donner Lake. My favorite though is a sign on the valley floor on the north side of Highway 40. This sign is best viewed from the lake. I have never been able to make out the words, but it clearly is an advertisement for a business east of Donner Lake.

Donner Lake Lodge circa 1960

Recreational Paradise,
The Best of all possible Worlds

These early structures had  a certain charm to them which the newer condominiums lack. Between the West End public beach and the Lodge were small cabins which were rented to tourists by the week. I remember walking by those cabins and it seemed that some of the same families would rent the same cabin during the same week each summer. While I never learned any names, I would exchange greetings on my way to go fishing.

Donner Lake Lodge and Wilshire Dock

Water sports abounded at Donner during the summer. My family had a small fishing boat with a 1.7 horsepower outboard motor on it. This was pretty much my boat during the summers. It was from this boat that I launched my many adventures. Others had larger powerboats and if I was lucky, I would be offered a ride, or better yet, taken skiing.

Norm Saylor was an expert water skier. Many years ago I purchased a Donner Lake postcard showing two skiers being pulled up from the West End beach. Later I showed the card to Norm and he indicated that he was one of the skiers.

Norm Saylor (r) water skiing while his wife and daughter watch

Cabins to right could be rented by the week. (note Ski Jump in

Distance) Norm was both an expert snow and water skier.

The Wilshire dock extended out into the lake from the grounds of the Donner Lake Lodge. People used to fish from that dock and many of them would let their pop bottles sink into the lake. On Monday mornings I would take my small fishing boat to the Wilshire dock and other popular fishing spots, don a mask and fins and dive for the pop bottles. These I would turn in to the Trading Post for the deposit which was three cents on the small bottles and five cents for the quart size. This was how I earned spending money. The owner of the Trading Post would not give me the full deposit on the bottles. He said that wouldn't be fair since I didn't pay for them. I thought that was pretty cheap and I still do.

Donner Lake Trading Post

The West and beach is now owned and operated by the Truckee Recreation District. We used to call it the "Pay Beach", to distinguish it from the Property Owners Beach, which we referred to simply as "The Beach". When I grew up the Jamison family from Reno ran the Pay Beach. You could go there and rent a boat, a canoe or a paddleboat. The Jamison's were a very kind and public spirited family. When Interstate 80 was being constructed a forest fire broke out and threatened the entire valley. Property owners like my family were constructing cabins and many feared losing everything. The Jamison's opened their beach as a place where property owners could bring their trailers and other valuables in case cabin sites and the cabins were destroyed. I can remember Dad taking our little house trailer that we camped in while constructing the cabin to the Pay Beach and leaving it there. We then had to evacuate and I remember looking back at Donner Lake from the Summit Bridge and wondering if I would ever see our cabin again.

Children were given a degree of freedom at the lake that would be unheard of today. They were allowed to swim, hike and explore with little adult interference. I had many great adventures at Donner. To me, it was the best of all possible worlds. The freedom I enjoyed and the adventures I hatched were good for me, and an essential part of who I am.

West End Beach before it was taken over by the Recreation District

Looking west from Donner Lake, June 11, 2017

(18) A Last BraveAttempt

A Last Brave Attempt

Johnny Tat, Owner Of Johnny's Auto Repair

Karen, a friend indeed

Wednesday I returned to Oakland via Muni and BART. On Monday my friend from high school, Karen, picked me up at the BART station in Oakland and drove me to Johnny's.
On Wednesday Karen had to work so I walked the 1.8 miles both to Johnny's and then back to the BART station. At least I'm getting my exercise.

Johnny's repair shop is best described as organized chaos. Johnny and his employees speak Vietnamese to one another. Johnny's English is heavily accented and he yells a lot. At one point Johnny explained that he wanted to help me out because, as Johnny put it "Basicawly, you skwooed." He also added that since I was from Idaho and stuck in the middle of Oakland "You nowhere".  I have tried to accurately portray Johnny's tone and accent, not to be demeaning but because I believe Johnny accurately and eloquently described my situation.

I respect Johnny and in my time at his shop I could see that he provides a very valuable and needed service to his customers and the community. With their cars Johnny is a very competent mechanic. In his own way he is also compassionate and professional. With my 1959 Ranchero, however, Johnny was out of his element. His knowledge of the car and its modifications was no greater than mine. In addition, Johnny was very busy and didn't want to listen to my ideas.

Johnny came to America in 1978 after Vietnam fell to the Communist. He explained to me that he left Vietnam because of the lack of freedom and because of the discrimination he suffered because he was of Chinese descent (Cantonese). Johnny told me how he has basically had four lives. The first one was in South Vietnam before it fell to the communist. The Second Life was when he left Vietnam through the North and into China. He then escaped China by boat to Hong Kong. The boat was terribly overloaded and everybody on board had to bail to keep it afloat. Finally he arrived in America where he went to college for a year to become a mechanic. He saved his money and bought the repair shop he now operates.

Johnny explained that he would be unable to work on my car on Wednesday. At that point, I volunteered to do the work. I began working on the car and although we made progress we were unable to get the car to run on Wednesday or Thursday in a fashion that would leave me confident to drive it on the highway. In a couple of words, "I was screwed."

Linda, Jill and Jerry decided I needed an evening to help me forget my problems, so we went to dinner, and a movie at the Castro Theater where the show began with an organ recital. I cheered up, after all, it was my birthday!

We came back with renewed efforts on Thursday. On Thursday Johnny posited the theory that since my car had an aftermarket distributor that was based upon a General Motors design that maybe the firing order was a General Motors firing order rather than a Ford firing order. It was at this stage that I lost all confidence that the Ranchero would be returned to me properly fixed and in a timely fashion.

Johnny settling the bill with a customer

I walked back to the BART station on Thursday completely exhausted, discouraged and quite literally bloodied and bruised. It was time for a new plan.

The Ranchero, feeling a bit  embarrassed as it

is pulled up on the tow truck 

I called my friend Lynn who called his friend Jim Fry who was just opening a shop in the East Bay. I had spoken to Jim before, but was not sure that he would be able to get to my car in a timely fashion. Now it was clear to me that nothing was going to happen in a timely fashion. So I may as well go to the guy that made me feel confident. Jim's specialty is electronic ignition, classic cars and hot rods. He applies high tech solutions to old cars. Sounds made to order for my unique set of problems. His business is Hot Rod Wire Service and his phone is: 1-510-329-7775. His web site is: https://hotrodwireservice.com/

Thursday night and Friday morning Linda and I worked to arrange to have the car transported from Oakland to San Ramon, California. Jim's shop is in an old Nike Missle base in the hills behind San Ramon. I would leave the car with Jim until the middle of July when I would be able to return to California.

Good Bye Johnny

In the meantime my 2006 Mustang was fitted with a trailer hitch and my son, Charlie, would drive it to Donner Lake, California. Linda rented a car and drove to San Ramon. I rode in the tow truck. Upon arriving in San Ramon I discussed possible remedies with Jim. With each conversation my confidence in him has grown. Linda and I bid farewell, for now, to the Ranchero and drove to Donner Lake in our rented KIA. I chuckled to myself as I thought that "KIA" also means "killed in action." How fitting.

We have not given up yet. On Monday Linda and I will leave Donner Lake and drive to Ely Nevada. We hope to continue to be a "Ford on the Lincoln", we just won't be the same Ford as we started out. We will have to do some long stretches, especially in the early days and we will continue to reevaluate the trip and in Iowa we will make a decision as to whether to return to Idaho or to continue to New York City. In any event I am still determined to drive all the way across to America. It just might take a bit longer.

(17) Tourists Loose in the City

Linda outside the Ferry Building looking at Treasure

Island and the Bay Bridge

On Monday, June 5 I rode BART from San Francisco to Oakland and returned to Johnny's repair shop. We worked all day on the car, but unfortunately did not make much progress. I ordered some additional parts for Johnny and asked him what time he wanted me back in the morning to help. Johnny said that I should take the day off and relax and that he would work on the car on Tuesday.

On Tuesday Linda and I decided to play the tourists in San Francisco. Both of us had grown up in the Bay Area, but the funny thing about growing up in a place is you never do the touristy things. On Tuesday we took the Muni to the Embarcadero Building and then a streetcar to fisherman's wharf. We were determined to play tourists.

Ferry Building

Ferry Building in 1939

San Francisco Bay at the time of the 1939 World's Fair

Bay Bridge and Treasure Island from Ferry Building

San Francisco provided a beautiful day for us and we could not have had better weather had we ordered it. Although the day was not warm, it was not cold either. I guess it was just right. We began at the ferry building and I took some pictures of the building, Treasure Island across the bay. We then went to fisherman's wharf for lunch at Boudin's and to walk some of the piers. We also went to a museum of Nickelodeon machines and played some of the games. All in all it was a delightful day.

Treasure Island, site of 1938 World's Fair

Fishing Boats at Fisherman's Wharf

Fisherman's Wharf

At the Mechanical Museum
"Will we ever get out of here?"

We also went to a museum of Nickelodeon machines and played some of the games. All in all it was a delightful day.



Finally, after returning to the Embarcadero Station by Streetcar, we came across a plaque dedicated to a distant relative. On Wednesday, I would return to Johnny's....

Muni Streetcar painted in historic color scheme

Plaque dedicated to Robert Frost

(16) Chasing the shadows of the Fair

Chasing the shadows of the fair

In search of the rich past

On Sunday, June 4, our friends Jill and Jerry took us on a tour of the city showing us many of the tourist attractions which we have not had the time or the maturity to enjoy when we lived here growing up. It was wonderful!

We also pursued a more serious tour of chasing the remaining shadows of the Panama Pacific International Exhibition. As I've noted in an earlier entry, the fair's exhibits were intended to be   temporary. They were made of burlap covered with Plaster of Paris. Some, like the Legion of Honor and the Palace of Fine Arts were made more permanent in later decades. The Palace of Fine Arts has become a beloved San Francisco landmark. The Palace Of the Legion of Honor also, but to a lesser extent. The Legion of Honor has also been rebuilt, albeit in a different location, made permanent and is also an art museum.

Palace of Fine Arts

 The Palace of the Legion of Honor

We are looking for some of the lesser-known sites. First we traveled to the

Moscone Recreation Center site of Panama Canal Model

Moscone Recreation Center which, although not part of the 1915 fair was the location of one of the fair's major exhibits. A model of the Panama Canal, complete with working locks, was on exhibition here. It is now a recreation center and athletic fields.

Athletic Fields at Moscone Recreation Center

To see the athletic fields gives you some impression of the size of the exhibit of the  Panama Canal. This was a grand model intended to further inspire the nation that had just constructed a wonder of the modern world, that is a canal across the Isthmus of Panama. Visitors to the fair were either blind or else extremely impressed by this model. Both in its accurate representation of the real canal and the technical achievement of both the actual Canal and the model.

Model of Panama Canal 1915 PPIE

After having lunch in downtown San Francisco we proceeded to Belmont, south of the City. In Belmont is The Van's restaurant which originally served as part of the Japanese exhibit to the fair.

Tea House at the Fair

Japanese Exhibit to PPIE

In one sense it is probably the only remnant of the fair that has survived without major reconstruction. This teahouse was taken from its site as part of the Japanese exhibit to the fair and moved to the waterfront. There it was put on a barge and floated south of the city to Belmont. In Belmont it initially served as a private residence. Later it was pulled by horses up the hill to its present location. The history of The Van's is somewhat checkered. At different points in its history it served not only as a private residence but later as a prohibition era speakeasy and perhaps as a center of harlotry.

Van's was a pleasant surprise on our tour. I thought we would quickly view the structure and move on. Instead we stayed for a delicious meal and a pleasant evening with good friends.

Wallpaper in The Van's

 

     



I  was told that the interior features some of the original  woodwork and original wallpaper of the 1915 teahouse remain.

The Van's, Interior woodwork

In addition the meal was superb. It was reasonably priced, the tables were set with white tablecloths, it was quiet enough to engage in pleasant conversation and the food was delicious. For dessert the four of us split a large slice of cheesecake. I have to say it was the best cheesecake I have ever had. (Sorry Mom and Linda.) The restaurant seemed to be enjoying a brisk business, although I have to say that given the quality of the food and the ambience I'm surprised (but glad) it was not more crowded.

Jill and Linda contemplating the best

Cheesecake ever!

On Monday I traveled back to Oakland to check on the Ranchero. A report on the progress of the work will be the subject of a later blog entry. I want to be more sure of the outcome. Suffice it to say it has been a roller coaster ride, one that I want to get off. However, I think we are here for the week. Oh well!

(15) SIDE TRACKED!

Outside Johnny's Automotive Repair in West Oakland Ca

Friday, June 2 began with great promise. It was a bright morning and Linda and I left Donner Lake  early to travel to San Francisco. At Lincoln Park in San Francisco we were to begin our adventure on Sunday. The plan was to drive to the city, perhaps take a few photographs on the way, stop at the

Soldiers Memorial

Pleasant Hill, Ca

Soldiers Memorial in Pleasant Hill, California before proceeding to San Francisco To See the Palace of Fine Arts and the Presidio as well as to pay a visit to my parents' grave at the cemetery at the Presidio. Then it happened. We only accomplished the visit to the Soldiers Memorial.

As we were on entry ramp to Interstate 580 and the San Francisco Oakland Bay Bridge when, suddenly, the car lost all power. We were in the left-hand lane and I was able to maneuver the car to the right shoulder where there was barely enough room for the car and not enough room for either of us to get out. Efforts to restart the Ranchero only brought backfires and sputters. It was time to call for towing.
After an hour and ten minutes, the Highway Patrol showed up. After an hour and a half, towing showed up. Haggerty insurance asked us where we wanted to go and we really had no idea other than off the freeway to a garage.

We were taken to a garage in West Oakland. While the shop appeared adequate enough, the neighborhood looked very sketchy. I only saw imported cars inside.  The tow truck driver lowered the Ranchero off of the truck and said something about having to get to another job, bosses orders. The repair shop employees knew nothing and said we'd have to wait for Johnny, the boss. This was late on Friday afternoon and I was growing very concerned about having an unsecured car on the streets of West Oakland after dark.

Johnny's Automotive Repair, West Oakland, Ca

Finally the owner, Johnny, arrived. Johnny is Asian and I have to admit to having some difficulty understanding him at first. He talked rapidly and said that he really wasn't sure what to do with the car. He said that it would be better if we went to another shop that was familiar with classic cars that had been modified.

We called Haggerty Insurance again and they agreed to send the tow truck driver back. They also called another shop for us but when we spoke to the employees of the other shop they once again said we would have to wait and talk to the owner. The owner would not be in until Monday and they did not have a secure place to store the car. The towing company agreed to store the car in a secure location but told us that since the repair shop probably could not get to it until Tuesday and that we would have a $300.00 storage fee by then and the fee would be climbing with each passing day. It was back to Johnny.

I walked to a gas station and purchased 2 gallons of gas in the vain hope that I had run out of gas. That was not the problem.

Johnny and I then talked about the car and I familiarized him with the fuel injection system and we discussed possible remedies. Gradually, we developed a mutual respect and rapport. Johnny indicated that he could diagnose it on Monday and that he would not charge a storage for the weekend. I figured that he could do $300.00 worth of repair work before I reached the breakeven point with the other shop. Johnny and I also came up with a plan of attack on the car.

That plan involved me ordering a new carburetor, a new fuel pump (old style) and any other parts I thought Johnny might need on Monday. I ordered the parts at Summit Auto-parts and they agreed to ship the parts out Friday night but indicated they could not guarantee their arrival by Monday morning in Oakland.

This whole incident has been hard for me because I cannot do anything. If I had the car at home I would be tearing off the throttle body fuel injection and probably locating and putting a new carburetor on the car and having it ready to go or at least to find out if that was the only problem with the engine. This is also been hard for me as the reason I bought the very expensive Holley fuel injection system was to increase the reliability of the Ranchero and to improve its drivability. Now this very part appears to be the cause of my woe. Appropriately, the Holley system is called "The Terminator"  Oh well!

At this point Linda and I collected our bags and Johnny dropped us off at the BART station. We rode the train to San Francisco where Linda's friend, Jill, picked us up and took us to her house. After a fitful night I awoke on Saturday morning and decided to make the best of a bad situation. The scenarios run from best case to worst-case. Worst-case is abandoning the trip and returning to Boise with my tail between my legs. There are several options to explore before I reach that point. We have some time.

On Saturday we visited the Presidio, my parents' grave And the Palace of Fine Arts. It was a beautiful San Francisco day. Linda, Jill, Jill's husband Jerry and I had lunch in a café at lands and Lands End. All in all it turned out to be a nice day in the city.

Linda with Cannon spiked by troops under the command of 

John C Fremont during the Bear Flag Revolt

Touchhole of cannon disabled by "spiking"

Original Presidio Wall from 1700's in side Officers Club, presidio

Palace of Fine Arts, San Francisco

Tourists in Front of Palace Of Fine Art. See lhttp://www.lovethepalace.org/index.html.

Ruins of Sutro Baths, Lands end San Francisco

At Lunch with Jill and Jerry at Louis' San Francisco

On Sunday we will visit Van's Restaurant in Belmont and have lunch there. Van's was moved to Belmont bay barge on San Francisco Bay from the site of the 1915 Fair where it had served as the Japanese Tea  house. It is the only structure from the fair which survives without significant reconstruction.

On Monday or Tuesday the car will be repaired, or not. I will call Johnny at 8:00 Monday morning.