Friday, June 16, 2017

(24) Medicine Bow, Wyoming to Sydney, Nebraska

June 15, 2017


Summit Tavern once stood atop Sherman Hill
We awoke on June 15 and left Medicine Bow before 7:30. I'm not sure that the hotel was any more comfortable than our tent trailer, but it was nice not to have to break camp in order to get on the road. I walked around the town a little bit and took some photographs and added them to yesterday's blog before we got on the road.


The "Oldest House" in the world, built 1933 

Close up of the fossil House
Our first stop was the little town of Como Bluff Wyoming. It almost seems to stretch to even call it a town. There were a few buildings on one side of the road. One building was called the Fossil Cabin was constructed of fossils taken from the nearby Como Butte. The cabin was built in 1933 but was featured in a 1950s Ripley's Believe It or Not as the oldest house in the world. Ripley was playing with the age of the fossils, not the date that the fossils were added to the house.

Thunderbird Lodge, Laramie

We proceeded down Highway 30 toLaramie, home of the University of Wyoming. We then headed east towards Sherman Hill. Sherman Hill is the highest point on the Lincoln Highway. It features a monument to Abraham Lincoln as well as a Henry Joy Memorial.





Henry Joy Monument


A somber Abe Lincoln

After Sherman Hill we drove to the Ames Monument which was located on what was then the highest point on the transcontinental railroad. The Ames Monument was paid for by Union Pacific to recognize the Ames brothers for their efforts in securing funding for the transcontinental railroad and also for their considerable contributions to the effort. The Ames monument is meant to blend with the surrounding rock formations




Me standing at base of Ames Monument for perspective

Lobby of Plains Hotel

Depot in Cheyenne
















Lincoln Theatre

Dennis showing of the elevator in the
Majestic Building
We got back on the freeway and headed towards Cheyenne. In Cheyenne we toured the depot, the Plains Hotel and the majestic building. While we were standing outside the Majestic building Dennis, who works there, asked us if we would like a tour. He took us inside and proudly showed us the oldest manually operated elevator west of the Mississippi. Dennis manages the Majestic to supplement his retirement income. He is proud of his building, his elevator and his city.

Before leaving Cheyenne, we also photographed the Lincoln theater and stopped to see The Big Boy. Big Boy is the largest steam locomotive ever built.
Big boys examining the Big Boy
It was specifically built by Union Pacific to haul loads of freight up Sherman grade. It seems that the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevada both required specialty built locomotives to pull the freight to the top of the steep summits. The Union Pacific had Big Boy and the Southern Pacific had a Cab Forward which was similar to Big Boy but had the engineer at the front of the locomotive. This was because of the many tunnels over the Sierra Nevada. There was a danger of crews becoming asphyxiated in the long tunnels and snow sheds of Donner Pass
.
"Wait! Wasn't that Tree Rock?"

After Cheyenne we drove quickly to the Wyoming – Nebraska border. It was good by Wyoming and hello to the cornhusker state.


We didn't make it far into Nebraska. A few miles over the border I exited Highway 80 and opted for US 30. I was surprised what a difference this made in the trip and in my well-being.

Interstate 80 in Western Nebraska
Highway 80 it seems dominates the land. In addition the huge trucks, operating at high speeds, make for frayed nerves. I knew that I wanted to drive 2-lane roads on this trip but I didn't realize how much more I would enjoy them over the interstate . Driving a US Highway makes one feel like he is part of the surrounding landscape and towns. Driving the Interstate makes you feel like you are cutting through it and that you need to make up for lost time. The Interstate dominates the landscape both visually and with its relentless din. It is a beast that never sleeps.

Culvert from Lincoln Highway Days
We drove along Highway 30 until we reached our destination of Sydney Nebraska. Sydney is home of Cabela's sporting goods. In other words this is the mothership.

Cabela's, the Mothership


The Cabela's at Sydney features a campground. We stayed there and found it very noisy.
Tomorrow we will drive further east and hopefully further from the dominating interstate.


Thursday, June 15, 2017

(23) June 14, Coalville Utah to Medicine Bow, Wyoming


Holiday Hills RV Park, Coalville, Utah

The Price of Beauty in the West

We awoke on Wednesday, June 14 to a cold crisp and beautiful morning. This is one of the most picturesque campsites we have stayed in in a long time.(http://www.rvhills.com/ )
It is far superior to the KOA in West Wendover. But in the West, there's always a price to pay for beauty. Here beauty came with below freezing temperatures. We stayed warm enough so long as we were in our beds in the tent trailer. But I hustled to get dressed once I climbed out of bed. Linda remained in bed a little longer as I got up to start the stove and make a pot of coffee.
Morning Coffee

There was a hard frost everywhere and a little puddle of water had frozen solid on the picnic table. Still, the view from our campsite was stunning. As cold as it was I enjoyed the morning and watching some of the other campers get up to fish in the river.

The night before I'd spoken with the man across the way who told me that he and his wife had sold their house and bought a motorhome. He was not yet retired, but he was working as a pipe fitter on snowmaking machines at ski resorts. He caught two large fish the day before. Bob, who along with his wife Margie are the camp hosts, wished me a good morning and asked if there was anything I needed. This is certainly a Welcoming and friendly campground.

Bob, Our Camp Host

Linda and I quickly broke camp and then it was time to get on the road. We would have another long day ahead of us. We had to backtrack a bit in order to catch I-80 East. We headed northeast into Echo Canyon and then into Wyoming. We would spend the entire day in Wyoming and will probably spend much of the following day crossing the state as well.

Echo Canyon and Utah's Geology


Rock formation on the way to Wyoming
As we drove up into Echo Canyon I marveled once again at the varied and beautiful geology that is Utah. Echo Canyon certainly does not possess the most beautiful geological formations I've seen in Utah, but if it pales in comparison that is only because of the many other stunning places in the state.

As we drove up echo Canyon, I found myself thinking once again of the Donner party. The Donner party's first mistake was in choosing not to follow the California Trail to Fort Hall in Idaho and then down Utah and across Nevada. That route is hard enough. However, George Donner had become convinced by a promoter named Lansford Hastings that there was a newer shorter route through Echo Canyon and South around the great Salt Lake and then along the Humboldt River towards Truckee Meadows (Reno).

The first obstacle they encountered was Echo Canyon. Echo Canyon was not a Trail in any sense of the word. While it may be passable for a horse or a man, wagons had never crossed through it. The Donner party lost much time in breaking the trail. At least they made things easier for the Mormon pioneers who came along a year later.

Evanston
Downtown Evanston

After crossing into Wyoming we first came to the city of Evanston. We hadn't planned to stop here long, but we ended up staying for a tour of the historical Museum and the historic depot.

Linda with Kay, the director
of  the Uinta County museum
in Evanston

Kay, the director of the museum, gave us the tour. The museum itself is in the old Carnegie library building. She also told us some other sites to see before we left Evanston. Her advice was helpful and accurate. Like most people in small Western cities and towns she was friendly and helpful.

After leaving Kay we walked around the old Union Pacific Roundhouse at the edge of town. The Roundhouse facility is on 27 acres. It features a still operational turntable, a machine shop. It is presently undergoing an extensive restoration for which the city of Evanston has received a grant. It appears they are spending the money well.

Partially restored Union Pacific Round with turntable. 
Lincoln Highway 1928 markers

Lincoln Highway Sites

At the Museum in Evanston we picked up a couple of brochures on Lincoln Highway. We stopped to see the Sunset Motor Court before leaving the city limits. What remains of the motor Court is original and is crying out for restoration. The Motor Court not only features cottages in a mission style, but has garage is attached to each cottage.

Lincoln Highway marker in front of Sunset Motor Court
Evanston, Wyoming

We then took a road south of Interstate 80 which at first was paved and had a posted speed limit of 50 miles an hour. However, after a couple of miles, the road turn to gravel at the speed limit change to 30 miles an hour. 30 miles an hour on that road would be much too fast. In a way, I'm glad I didn't know. I'm also glad I didn't have my fifty-nine Ranchero with me. This was some original sections of the Lincoln Highway and they appeared to be in the original condition. After approximately 10 miles of loose gravel road we managed to get back to the interstate. While still on the gravel road we managed to see Eagle rock which was a landmark on the early Lincoln Highway.



On old alignment, I sure wish I had 4 wheel drive!

Fort Bridger
We continued east on the interstate to Fort Bridger. Our children loved to play the Oregon Trail game on the computer. Linda taught a section on the Oregon Trail and she was amazed to see how much the trading post looked like the trading post in the computer game.

 
Replica of Jim Bridger's Fort Bridger 
Early travelers on the Oregon Trail would stop for supplies at Fort Bridger.

As the Oregon Trail became more unsafe for the emigrants Fort Bridger transformed from a trading post, to an army post. Much of the post has been restored and there are museum displays in many of the buildings.
Store, Fort Bridger

Fort Bridger, Wyoming




Somewhere, West of Laramie
Advertisement for Jordan Playboy


Wyoming, like California and other Western states captured the imagination of the country. It was a place of fresh starts where people were not bound by the circumstances of their birth. Hard work and honesty were seen as the best way to get ahead and they were rewarded amply in the West.

Lincoln Highway displays at Fort Bridger
The manufacturer of the Jordan Motorcar recognize this in the same way that it was recognized by Theodore Roosevelt and Owen Wister. There was an advertising campaign for an automobile made by Jordan called the Playboy. While the Jordan Playboy is  long forgotten, the advertisements for the car are not. One famous ad was called "Somewhere West Of Laramie". Advertising campaign is famous for two reasons. First of all it was marketing the car to women. Secondly the campaign evocative and based solely on emotion. It never really described the car only the feeling that one might experience in driving a Jordan Playboy.
Along the Green River, photo from American
Heritage Magazine, June 1974

On I-80, June 14, 2017

We traveled east through Green River, Rock Springs and other towns important to the history of the Lincoln Highway as well as to this country's westward expansion.


Postcard of Rock Springs Arch


The Virginian


James Drury starred as the Virginian in the
late 1960's and early 1970's


We finally left the freeway for Highway 30. In Medicine Bow, Wyoming. We would spend the night at the Virginian Hotel which is named for the book by Owen Wister. Wister, spent a number of summers during his early adult years in Wyoming. He made the acquaintance of many of the people who provided inspiration for the characters in his book. I'm sure that the character of the Virginian is a composite and perhaps a little bit of a Romanticization of individuals Wister met in Wyoming.

Virginian Hotel, Medicine Bow, Wyoming
Even if you haven't read the Virginian you are most likely familiar with the character. If you've ever seen a Western movie or read a Western novel most of the characters are based on the archetypes found in the Virginian. Such phrases as: "Smile when you call me that", and "Be out of town by Sunset" were first popularized in the Virginian. Wister stayed at the Virginian hotel and wrote much of the novel across the street in a rented room. His cabin is in a park across the street from the Virginian.


(L)Dining Room at the Virginian, open for
special occasions. (our visit was not a
Special Occasion) (R) Wister's cabin.




The room we had wasn't fancy, but it was comfortable and not much more expensive  than a space at a campground. Like the gravel road east of Evanston It gave us a good taste of what travel must have been like in the early days of the Lincoln Highway.

Vintage Postcard


Tomorrow we will hit the road for Laramie, Cheyenne and then into Nebraska.


Tuesday, June 13, 2017

(22) WestWendover Nevada - Coalville Utah

West Wendover Nevada

Wendover Will pointing the way out of town
The Victory Highway
Victory Highway Memorial, West Wendover, Nevada
The Victory Highway

Arriving at West Wendover we toured a park dedicated to the Victory Highway. The Victory was another named highway that was intended as a memorial to the Americans who fought and died in the WWI. It became popular in some of the Western states that were bypassed by the Lincoln. There was a fierce competition between the Victory Highway and the State of Utah on one side and the town of Ely, Nevada and the Lincoln Highway promoters on the other side. The Victory Highway won and the Lincoln Highway was forced to accept the result and ultimately share the road from Utah to Wendover with the Victory. The route through Ibapah fell into disuse.

Victory Highway postcard pack


Soldiers Memorial, Pleasant Hill, Calif.
Plaque on Soldiers Memorial identifying
Monument as related to Victory Hwy.
On our way to San Francisco we stopped at a soldiers memorial in Pleasant Hill, California. While it is generally accepted that the monument in Pleasant Hill is not part of the Victory Highway as it was not dedicated until after the Victory Highway had passed from the scene. I am not so sure, as a monument was certainly planned before 1926 and stands on a prominent corner of the Victory Highway where Monument Boulevard comes south from Concord and then heads West on Contra Costa Boulevard towards Walnut Creek. The plaques on the monument identify it as relating to the Victory Highway. 

My Great Uncle Howard served in World War I, his name is on the memorial. Howard died in a train wreck in France after the cessation of hostilities. We stopped at the memorial to pay tribute to him before the start of this trip.

Howard Lacey, died 1919













Wendover to Ogden

From Wendover we headed east on to Highway 80.
Postcard of Great Salt Lake Scenes
This is the home of the Bonneville Salt Flats where so many land speed records have been set. East of Bonneville we exited the freeway at Grantsville. West of Grantsville there is a curious place called Bonneville Seabase. Here I received my initial certification as a scuba diver. The water is heated by natural hot springs and is brackish from the salt desert. There are actually tropical saltwater fish, including a nurse shark sharing the water with the divers.

Mountains near Grantsville, showing water levels
for Lake Bonneville


We had hoped to tour the Donner party Museum in Grantsville, but unfortunately it is closed for an undetermined amount of time. The salt desert in this area vexed both the Donner party and the 1919 Army tour of which to Dwight Eisenhower was a member. It seems that the salt crust is fairly thin in many places and lying beneath the thin crust is a quagmire which wreaked havoc with both the Donner party and the Army transcontinental tour.

1919 Army Tour

Salt Lake City


Salt Lake to Ogden

We headed north from Salt Lake towards Ogden. Looking at the Wasatch front we saw evidence of the prehistoric lake Bonneville.

Ogden to Echo Canyon



Devil's Slide, above and left

The great Salt Lake it seems is but a remnant of Lake Bonneville. The level of Lake Bonneville would rise and fall with the changing prehistoric climate. At one point the northern shore of the lake breached its boundaries at Red Rock Pass, north of Preston, Idaho. The resulting flood shaped much of the South Idaho landscape. The snake River Canyon at Twin Falls was formed by this flood.

Some irreverent souls in the late 1970s or early 1980s printed bumper stickers calling for the restoration of Lake Bonneville. Looking at the water line on the Wasatch front it is easy to imagine what that would mean for Salt Lake City.

Ogden Utah Vintage Postcard

At Ogden we headed east towards Echo Canyon where we would turn north to Wyoming. East of Ogden we entered Weber Canyon and came upon a rock formation known as the devil slide.
A little further east we turn north into Echo Canyon and towards Wyoming.

We spent the night in Coalville, Utah at the Holiday Hills RV Park just off the highway.
Campground at Coalville Utah.
The campground hosts were friendly and helpful. The campground was beautiful and well-kept. I have electricity,  and the showers are not too far away.
Downtown Coalville, Utah


We went into Coalville for dinner and had dinner at a Mexican market and restaurant. Some of the best Mexican food I've had in a long time. Downtown Coalville is really quite nice.
I received a call from Jim Fry concerning the Ranchero. Apparently the problem is not that hard to fix. In fact, Jim has fixed it. It only needed to have the new coil installed. One which I had provided to Johnny last Monday or Tuesday.

Wednesday morning we will get on the road and head for Medicine Bow, Wyoming.